At PPG, the safety of our employees and customers is our number one priority. To support the well-being of our training team and customers during this challenging time, we have decided to postpone all scheduled training classes through April 30th. It's a fact that on nearly half of the cars painted today, the actual color sprayed in the factory varies from the OEM standard—making color matching time-consuming and difficult.
It contains color chips and corresponding paint codes for thousands of the latest color variants, covering both domestic and import vehicles. Use it to identify the color that best matches the actual color of a customer's vehicle, and you can save time and eliminate costly mistakes. Download the Brochure. With wheel colors and accent and trim colors, it offers a variety of choices to achieve a successful color match.
Our annual color information books are comprehensive OEM color reference guides providing extensive color identification information at a glance. Finding the right color for a repair typically involves knowing the vehicle year, make and model. Now with Paint It, an online database, there are endless search combinations available to the user. PPG tint guides are valuable tools for identifying the color properties of specific toners when a color requires tinting.
Technicians find that these tools make it easy to determine how using a specific toner will move a color. View All Tint Guides. Watch these informative videos to improve the quality and productivity of your paint refinishing operation. PPG Automotive Refinish is more than just a paint company. Learn more about our exceptional products, color tools, and training programs. All rights reserved. Canadian Nat Rule. Chicago Metro and East Rule.
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Atomic Industries www. Register now to get rid of these ads! The H. Repainting the hood on my Healey after louvering. It's been sandblasted and primed with DPLF.
Dried over 7 days so I've scuffed with red Scotchbrite and will fill some pitting on the underside with Rage Ultra, then want to use a good primer-surfacer for blocking. Any suggestions as to a good quality primer-surfacer? HealeyRickNov 10, Some guys on here don't like polyesters but I did mine in Evercoat's Superbuild.
Has a thicker fill build than any other primer on the market so I didn't need to apply as many coats as some others and it sands nicely It's whats on the truck in my avatar. It's now painted and going back together. Did it all in my garage. K13Nov 10, All the major manufacturers make good products, if you stay away from the "economy" line.
And it sands pretty easily.
No need for any other product. I've been looking at Evercoat Uro-fill. Anyone have any experience with it? HealeyRickNov 11, K13Nov 11, Why not stick with the ppg products.
You don't have to seal it if you don't sand through and k also can be an excellent sealer. The problem will be matching the other panels. You should use the same colored sealer as the adjacent panels.
You also cannot topcoat them directly, and most resto guys use urethane surfacer over them anyway. Sent from my iPhone using The H. HealeyRick likes this. As a hobbyist I've used Slick Sand and was very happy with the results. Epoxy sealer after that and then colour. FortunatesonNov 11, Thanks for all the advice. The rest of the car was sealed with a reduced coat of DPLF before the color coat, so I'll probably do the same for the hood.The Jalopy Journal.
I think PPG still makes K36, but maybe there's better products available now. Have things changed much in the last 10 years? Keep in mind I'm in California and don't know how bad compliance laws are anymore. We all know that can dictate what we can get our hands on! Thanks in advance, -ns. K36 is nice, I use it often. Plenty of build, adhesion to damn near anything, and no clogging. Plus its an ugly mint green that inspires you to get your project done quicker. SlowandLow63May 24, K36 is a great surfacer.
I have used it for years. It has great filling capabilities, powders up really nice when sanding. But to me it's biggest strength is the fact that it is a corrosion resistent surfacer. You can prime over damn near anything without having to worry about putting down any sort of an etch or epoxy first. I know most guys don't worry about that much, but when using most sufacers, any bare metal spots should have an etch put down first.
Otherwise you run a big risk of corrosion somewhere down the road. Biggest down fallHaving a problem shooting PPG K My HVLP gun doesn't seem to atomize the paint, which is mixed per the instructions no thinner. The paint seems to shoot out in tiny splotches or dots, which don't flow together well. I tend to get an orange peel finish. Is this normal? I don't know whether I should expect a smooth finish or not since this is a high build primer and most of this gets sanded away. This is with a 1.
This is on lower cowl, after 3 coats of epoxy block sanded to grit first coat. I used that primer and it worked very well. Just add some reducer to thin it down and it should spray fine. It was suggested to me to first prime with DP epoxy primer to seal the fiberglass prior to the build primer.
Since you've already applied the K36 you can probably shoot sealer prior to top coat. Just ask your paint shop what they recommend for that. If I recall, the data sheet recommends reducing the mixture. It seamed awfully thin when I first mixed it but it sprays well and doesn't run as I expected it would. They will save a ton of time, solvent and materials. It makes using the gun almost as painless as using a puff can!
Something is in the gun, or something is loose. Aircap may be loose or has dried paint behind it. Dismantle the gun and clean it very well Drain the water out of your compressor and lines Adjust your air preasure Make sure your gun is assembled propperly everything is tight "Primer" guns usually get ignored during cleaning.All of us know a good-looking paint finish when we see one.
Knowing and doing, however, are two different matters. Seeing is a long way from "doing" but it is a skill that you can learn and improve upon.
To get this knowledge we looked to the pros in paint finish: PPG. The doing is up to you. If we have any interest in painting our own street rods, proper prep is an absolute. It has been said that patience is a virtue thereby making painting a virtuous act. Preparation in painting is paramount. There's a lot of knowledge and effort resting beneath the vibrant and colorful topcoat all of us marvel. Since we want professional results we should seek professional input and for that we visited the paint labs of PPG.
The following are some basic dos and don'ts that each of us should be aware of before moving our project from bare metal or fiberglass to the final topcoat. Remember what you learned in first grade: "Anything worth doing, is worth doing well. With book learning in hand we thought it would be a good idea to follow the process on a street rod. Our subject is a fiberglass '32 Ford five-window coupe from the molds of Rat's Glass in Friendsville, Tennessee.
Surface Preparation Our moms told us to wash our hands before sitting down to the table. Well, it's no different when painting. Not only should you wash your hands, and make sure all of your equipment is clean, but that the surface soon to be painted is clean and ready to go. Wash the surface to be painted with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly. The intent is to remove any waterborne contaminates.
Clean, dry air is crucial to a successful paintjob.
If there is water vapor or oil vapor coming through the airlines from the compressor, the success rate will drop drastically. Water and oil are contaminates in paint and will cause a failure, if not right away, in a matter of months.
Wipe the surface with a good solvent cleaner to remove all oils and grease; PPG DX will get the job done. The intent of having a clean surface is to ensure good adhesion of the fillers and finishes used.
Any trapped contaminate will lead to future corrosion. Next, use a clean, dry cloth to wipe contaminates from the surface after the DX is applied. So far we have been talking about metal, but should your project be with fiberglass use a water- or alcohol-based cleaner. For 'glass, DX will remove mold release as well as dissipate static.
Surface Prep Don'ts Don't allow the DX to dry on the surface, the contaminates you just loosened will be reintroduced. If you wipe over an area where the cleaner has dried, any contaminates that were in that area will be spread around to the areas that are wiped.Thanks to the availability of Internet information, anyone who has ever sprayed a coat of paint can post their expertise online. This has led to a lot of bad or outdated information.
People toss around terms like primer, sealer, two-part paint, tri-coat, lacquer, single-stage, and it can get confusing. Many clients ask their painters to use lacquer. They think they will get a better paint job by using lacquer.
This is not true. Ever see a classic car with a paint surface covered in tiny cracks? Modern paint is easier to use, looks better, and is much more durable that any lacquer paintjob. New-technology paint works differently than old lacquer.
Lacquer was made with very strong solvents. While this allowed solvents to reach deep into the surface to form a strong chemical bond, it also created a variety of serious problems like crazing and wrinkling. This meant when something when wrong, you had to remove all the paint right down to the metal.
The solvents in the paint, carry the pigments and resins to the surface, then as they evaporate out, the layers bond together. This is why it is very important to understand the product you are using and what it needs. First, you need to know how to prepare the surface. What grit of paper do you need to use? How long can the product sit until it needs to be sanded before painting over it? The Paint Windows. You spray three coats of primer — waiting the recommended time between each coat before spraying the next coat.
These three coats are one round. A tech or P sheet explains everything you need to know about the product. What it can be sprayed over and how to prepare the surface, the kind of spray gun that should be used, the air pressure needed, how the coat should be applied, recommended number of coats, time between coats, recoat windows, and dry times. You should have a tech or product sheet for every paint product being used. Read through the sheet and follow what it says. Then, the primer cures overnight.
This is the window between rounds. Then, the primer is sanded and one coat of sealer is applied. The tech sheet for the sealer says it needs to dry for 30 minutes another recoat windowand then one round of three coats of basecoat-color can be sprayed.
The basecoat dries for one hour recoat windowand two coats of urethane clearcoat is sprayed. The tech sheet will tell you the recoat windows for the product. Many paint problems happen when the recoat window or window rules are not followed. Remember, film thickness can also affect the recoat window. The thicker or heavier the coat, the longer it takes for the solvents to gas out.
Follow the recoat rules on the tech sheet. If you go past the recommended time for recoat, take the time to sand or scuff that surface!
Most paint products are designed to be sprayed in certain conditions. This information is found on the products tech sheet. The Degree Rule. What happens when you try to paint in colder or warmer temperatures than recommended in the tech sheet? This is where the degree rule comes in.Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how! Send Private Topic View Profile. Execution time: 0.
All times are GMT Pacific. Current time is PM Top. Attach Photos to Posts. Contact Us. My Cookies. Frequently Asked Questions. Forum Rules. Collins, CO My plan is to probably do some filler work on bare metal, then apply the the DPLF and do some more filler work. Would I be better off applying the DPLF and follow it up right away within the re-coat window with the K, or is the risk of adhesion problems low?
Can you put filler over the K36? Don't worry about your K36 filler primer, becuase that won't come until later. First you need to do your roughout work with filler.PPG Primer Sealer Application SOP ( PD-0701)
Or you can sand off the DPLF in the local area you are working on and apply your filler directly to bare metal. I've done it both ways and both work fine. Once your pits are filled and sanded and any of the other roughout work, I like to shoot sprayable filler like Rust Defender.
It allows you to apply filler evenly without putting too much on. Block that out with 80 grit. Then I shoot another layer of spray filler and sand it with When you are happy that all of your dings and flutters are gone, then shoot that with K36 I use RM DP20, it's interchangable from many years experience.
What's the best primer-surfacer these days?
Then apply a guide fog coat over that. When it's dry, start blocking with grit. If you are satisfied with it, then you can shoot a sealer coat of DPLF and then paint. Some people might add another K36 coat and wet sand with